Whether your gear sits for two months or two weeks, how you store it decides how the first run of next season goes. Twenty minutes now prevents the classic spring disappointments: puffed packs, seized bearings, flat-spotted tires.

Batteries (the part that matters most)

Bring every pack to storage voltage – 3.80–3.85 V per cell – with the charger's storage mode, then store them at room temperature, not in a cold garage, and not on a workbench near anything flammable. Never store packs fully charged, and never in the model. Write the storage date on a piece of painter's tape; in spring, top them back up before the first run.

Drivetrain and moving parts

Brush out grit from gears and diff housings. Put a drop of oil on motor bearings and a dab of grease on driveshaft ends. For cars that ran in wet or salty conditions, pull the wheels and clean the axle hexes – corrosion here quietly ruins parts that looked fine in the fall.

Electronics

Remove receiver packs if the model has them. Check servo and ESC connectors for the green-white corrosion bloom that means moisture got in, and address it now with contact cleaner rather than discovering it in March.

Tires, shells, and foam

Store cars with the wheels off the ground or the tires unweighted – foam inserts and tires take a set under sustained load. Keep shells out of direct sun; UV fades paint and turns polycarbonate brittle.

The five-minute spring restart

When the season returns: charge packs, check steering and throttle endpoints before driving, spin each wheel by hand to confirm free rotation, and do one gentle lap before any jumps. Models stored well need nothing more.

If storage revealed a part that is beyond cleaning – worn hexes, a noisy bearing, a tired pack – you will find replacements organized by model in car parts, drone parts, and batteries. And our FAQ covers the shipping details for lithium packs.